![]() The cylinder on its compression stroke uses it, the sister cylinder it's just wasted in the exhaust stroke. It seems agreed upon that 2 and 6 ( for example) fires a spark simultaneously to both cylinders. Note: I did more research about the coil pack firing the same time for each three primary coils that make up the 6 ports. I'll get this done and hopefully be back with good news and not cussing. I did actually see a physical heat crack in the old coilpack housing. Yes it is a cheap carquest brand they bought. I've seen crazier stuff bad out of the box. It's odd to me that a new coil does the exact same fudge as the old one. Before I do that I'm going to pull the PCM connection harness and inspect/ clean it. I am going to re- assembly everything and start the engine testing each coil port with alligator clip straight to my tester and directly to ground and do it for each port. I made an ignition spark tester out of some crap I had laying around. Although I don't think any of this has to do with why the coil doesn't spark, I have those bases covered. I'll dress the worn gaskets with some detroit diesel anerobic gasket maker I have. The diaphragm is okay and the plunger is not siezed. Luckily I had some spring clamps around and I have the special clamp tool for them. It looked like updated parts maybe but they didn't use any clamps. I put clamps on all the hoses at the throttle body. I was more after making sure the hoses weren't broken. I got clamps on it all and it's gotta be a lot better. I cleaned it up and at visual it appears to be in tact. I didn't pull the valve out beings that I don't have a new one. The hoses weren't cracked or broken but there was no clamps on anything and they were loose and wobbly. I got around pulling the intake since I just resealed it and I don't think it's sucking air there. Well I decided to check into the PCV valve since there was some oil in the throttle body and kinda leaking in that area. Old timers are you available to school me on this coil pack functionality and exactly how it sparks. But I can't see how that would make the damn coil pack not fire spark on #2. ![]() And the moron that messed it up originally cut the Catalytic converter off for scrap money and put on a flex pipe that leaks like a sive. Maybe I need to reset the codes? Oh yeah. They use the same wire as far as I understand it.Ayne I'm wrong. Is it a new bad coil? It couldn't be a wire from PCM to coil pack if #6 is firing. So I check and double check and check again for leaks, sucking air missed hose or connectors. There is no arcing like there should be when I pull off the wire on the terminal that is MEANT to be #2 wire position. And after I did that #6 was a dead hole and #2 came alive. Anyways I swapped dead #2 and good #6 wires at the coil. I'm guessing a wasted spark o the exhaust stroke? Then I read here somewhere that it isn't quite like that. So from what I read somewhere was that 4/3, 6/2, 5/1 spark at the same time. It goes from left to right facing it from the front of the car while it's installed, firewall side 4,6,5. So this is where I need some clarification. I don't have a scanner so I went about it old school. ![]() Two weeks later they tell me it's running kinda bad again. At least I thought so in comparison to how it came in. Pit all back together starts and runs and idles good. Tested the wires and plugs by disconnecting fuel pump relay and cranking. I made sure the coil wires were oriented correctly. Resealed the valve covers while I was at it( there was some oil in the spark plug cavities). He Had vacuum hoses not connected, plugs gapped wrong, wires half pinched under the UIM. So apparently it was dropped off two days later running worse than ever and barely drivable and lou's as fudge. I was not available to fix it right away, so they ended up letting this moron try to change the plugs and wires that they purchased. All I heard was they told her #2 cylinder was misfiring according to scan tool. Owner took to have code read at AutoZone.
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